Every time I tell someone I do Korean skincare, they either glaze over or panic — because they’ve heard about “the 10-step routine” and think it means 45 minutes of face-poking every morning. Let’s kill that myth right now.
The 10-step routine is a framework, not a daily assignment. Nobody in Korea is doing all 10 steps twice a day. The steps exist so you can pick the ones your skin needs on a given day and skip the rest. I’ll walk you through the actual list, what each step does, and when to use each one.
The 10 steps, in order
1. Oil cleanser
Removes makeup, sunscreen, and sebum. Night only. Non-negotiable if you wear SPF (which should be always).
2. Water-based cleanser
Removes sweat, dirt, and anything the oil cleanser left behind. This is “double cleansing” — more on that in my double cleansing guide.
3. Exfoliator
Chemical (AHA/BHA/PHA) or physical. 2-3 times a week max. If your skin is sensitive, once a week. Skip entirely if you’re using retinol.
4. Toner
Korean toners are hydrating, not astringent. They prep your skin to absorb everything that comes after. Think of it as a drink of water for your face.
5. Essence
The step Western skincare doesn’t have. Lightweight, watery, packed with hydrators and brightening ingredients. This is where brands show off their hero ingredients. SK-II Facial Treatment Essence is the famous Japanese one; the Korean version you want is COSRX Advanced Snail 96 or Missha Time Revolution.
6. Serum / ampoule
Targeted treatment. Vitamin C in the morning, niacinamide or peptides at night, retinol 2-3 nights a week. Pick one — layering five serums is how you end up with clogged pores and confused skin.
7. Sheet mask
Optional, 1-2 times a week, for an extra hydration hit or a self-care moment. Not a daily step unless you’re preparing for a wedding.
8. Eye cream
Controversial — the skin around your eyes is just skin and your regular moisturizer often works fine. I use eye cream when I want something specific (de-puffing, brightening). Skip if you don’t feel like it.
9. Moisturizer
Seals everything in. Gel for oily skin, cream for dry, something in between for combination. Every single routine ends with moisturizer — this is the one step you never skip.
10. Sunscreen (morning) or sleeping mask (night)
Morning: SPF 50 PA++++ Korean sunscreen, every single day, no exceptions, no “but I’m inside today.” Night: occasionally a sleeping mask if your skin feels dry.
What I actually do on a normal day
Morning: water cleanse, toner, vitamin C serum, moisturizer, sunscreen. Five steps, 4 minutes, done.
Night: oil cleanse, water cleanse, toner, essence, treatment serum (niacinamide or retinol), moisturizer. Six steps, 8 minutes.
Twice a week I add exfoliation after cleansing. Twice a week I add a sheet mask instead of essence. That’s how you use the 10-step framework without losing your mind.
Ready to build your own? Start with how to build a Korean skincare routine or if you’re brand new, the beginner guide.